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What Are Retinoids? Plus Unique Science Behind How it Works!

1.21.20

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What Are Retinoids? Plus Unique Science Behind How it Works!

Today we have a great science based skincare post for you, What are retinoids?

A few months ago, we shared a quick photo on instagram about a new retinoid service I have been using.

I did a quick instagram story, and we had so many questions coming in about what exactly a retinoid was plus how it worked!

We have collaborated with the company Dear Brightly to bring you some fantastic science based information and busting all the myths out there!

What are retinoids?

I sent in a question and answer form so we could get you the best expert information on retinoids. To start, what are retinoids??

Retinoids are the umbrella term for vitamin A and its derivatives. They include dermatologist-grade retinoids (what doctors prescribe), often referred to as simply ā€œretinoids,ā€ and over-the-counter retinoids (what you can get at beauty stores or Amazon), often in the form of ā€œretinolā€. To get a detailed look into these terms, visit this link.

How do they work? What is the science behind it?

Tretinoin, also known as retinoic acid, works to stimulate collagen production and increase cell turnover. This, in turn, improves fine lines and wrinkles, pigmentation, enlarged pores, uneven skin tone, and acne. It’s no surprise that tretinoin has astounded dermatologists as the only FDA-approved retinoid proven to reverse sun damage! With these powerful benefits, it is classified as medication and requires a visit to the dermatologist for a prescription.

Tretinoin works on all levels of the skin. Tretinoin improves shedding from the epidermis, termed exfoliation, and increases collagen levels in the dermis. Tretinoin can also increase blood flow to the skin. These changes occur slowly, and typically Tretinoin must be used for at least three months before the changes become apparent. During the first three months, the skin is gradually acclimating to Tretinoin, and while those changes may not be visible, a great deal is occurring under the surface.

Retinoid vs Retinol?

Although they are both Vitamin A derivatives, Retinol is an over the counter option and much weaker. Scientifically, retinols are less stable too. You can read all about it in this post.

How does this compare to retin-A?

Retin-A is the brand name and has the same exact active ingredient, Tretinoin, that works to stimulate collagen production and increase cell turnover to improve fine lines and wrinkles, pigmentation, enlarged pores, uneven skin tone, and acne. Where Retin-A differs from the Glowgetter is that the base and strength level is different and not personalized, so sometimes it can be very harsh on one’s skin especially if they are first starting out. The base used in the Glowgetter is a premium ingredient that is normally used for cuts and burns, so it has a very emollient texture. Additionally, the ingredients of the Glowgetter are cruelty-free, paraben-free, gluten-free, mineral oil-free, and vegan. And of course, the strength level is tailored by your provider depending on your skin type and history.

Is Dear Brightly a Retinoid Prescription? Does a doctor prescribe it?

Dear Brightly is a service that connects you with a board-certified doctor to get prescription-strength retinoids. 

Are there different types of retinoids?

Yes, there are different types of retinoids, but tretinoin is the only FDA-approved ingredient to treat photoaging.

How do you use a retinoid? Does it go before or after serums?

  1. Wash your face and dry completely.
  2. Apply only a pea-sized amount of retinoid onto your forehead, cheeks, and chin before smoothing it around.
  3. Moisturize with an oil-free moisturizer to prevent dryness.

You can apply any serums after the retinoid to coat the skin and rejuvenate overnight.

How long do retinoids take to work?

I noticed a difference after just 4 weeks of use. My skin was brighter and pores were smaller! Results vary depending on your skin type, and the neat thing about it, is you will continue to see results even a year after using a retinoid. Dear Brightly goes into a break down timeline for you here.

When should you start using retinoids? 

Dermatologists say you can start using retinoids as early as your 20’s for preventative and regenerative photoaging measures. To put it simply, if you do see wrinkles, pigmentation, etc., then it’s not a bad idea to start now. And even if you don’t see these skin concerns, getting started on a retinoid regimen will help you achieve and maintain optimal, healthy skin.

Can you use it around the eyes?

This is definitely something you should talk with your provider about as everyone’s skin is different. You should be cautious around the eyes and moisturizing around the eyes is important. Also, retinoids are designed to diffuse under the skin’s surface so it should treat that area.

Can you use it every day? 

Yes, you can use a retinoid every day, but you always want to listen to your skin. If you’re new to retinoids or starting on a higher strength, start slowly. Start off by applying every third night and increase to nightly as tolerated.

Are there any side effects?

Side effects can be prevented or greatly minimized with great instructions and proper use, which is why we provide our customers with detailed instructions when they order from Dear Brightly. Here are some common side effects associated with retinoid use:

  • Redness and irritation – If you’re using a strength that is too high for your skin type, redness or irritation can occur. Make sure to use a strength that makes sense for your skin type. (Dear Brightly does this for you.) And of course, moisturize!
  • Increased sensitivity to the sun – Retinoids can initially make your skin more sensitive to the sun, but after a few months of use, your skin’s response to UV rays returns to normal. To avoid sensitivity, use sunscreen (but you should already be using one anyway…) And note, it’s still important to use a retinoid, even during the summer!
  • Acne ā€œpurgingā€ – For those prone to acne, there may be a two- to four-week ā€œpurgingā€ period where you experience acne breakouts before your skin clears up. That’s because you have hidden acne underneath the surface. This acne was going to appear sooner or later and retinoids force them to come out whether they like it or not. Patience is key. The results are worth it. There’s a reason millions of people use retinoids.

Important note: Over the past 50+ years, no systemic side effects or risks on the long-term treatment of topical retinoids have been observed. It’s why they’re widely prescribed.

How to Place an Order:

I have had readers asking me how can they go about placing an order for a prescription retinoid. It is very simple! You just head to this link, and get a profile set up. They walk you through all the steps!

I have noticed such a difference in my skin using this service. I have had numerous people telling me my skin looks so youthful the last several months!

Let me know if you have any other questions in the comments below! And be sure to join us on instagram for more skincare tips šŸ™‚


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Alexis

Alexis is an investigative chemist sharing her expertise in cleaning, skincare, gardening, and home hacks. She personally tests out products like the best skincare products or home products then shares not only the science behind how it works, but also her personal results. She is the mom of two living in Texas with her husband. Find her on Instagram for fantastic videos, tips, and behind the scenes.

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Filed Under: DIY Skin Care Tagged With: retinoids, retinol vs retinoid, what are retinoids

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Comments

  1. Laurie S says

    January 21, 2020 at 3:08 pm

    Thanks for the info on retin*** products. I’ve heard nightmares about Retin-A – the burning, peeling, redness. I’ve always avoided anything having to do w/retin***. Now I’m in my 50s, and my skin looks pretty good – but maybe there’s room for improvement… I’ll email my dr/derm as see if it’s something to pursue.

    Reply
    • Alexis says

      January 23, 2020 at 5:44 am

      Yes, I have always wanted to avoid that too! That is why this service is so neat, they tailor the ingredients to match what you need. That way it isn’t so strong. It is definitely worth asking your doctor about, it has made such a difference in my skin health!

      Reply
  2. Aussie Jo says

    January 21, 2020 at 4:50 pm

    A very interesting post

    Reply
    • Alexis says

      January 23, 2020 at 5:45 am

      Thank you!!

      Reply
  3. Sarah E. says

    January 23, 2020 at 5:39 am

    This is such a great post! I only trust your skincare information because it is science based. Everything you have shared has made such a difference in my skin! I don’t have Instagram anymore, so I missed this post before. Thanks for sharing! I am heading over to their website now to order.

    Reply
    • Alexis says

      January 23, 2020 at 5:47 am

      That is so great to hear, thank you! We love sharing science based skincare tips so you can make sure to get the best info. I hope you enjoy trying it!

      Reply
  4. Linda says

    February 10, 2020 at 6:49 pm

    Dear Alexis,
    I wonder if you know of a place to purchase this in Canada? Here in the deep woods of Northern Ontario my skin needs some help!

    thank you kindly for your time,

    Linda

    Reply
    • Alexis says

      February 12, 2020 at 6:29 am

      Hi Linda! Unfortunately, the telehealth regulations right now limit where you can ship these types of products šŸ™ This company told me that laws are quickly changing, and the hope to be able to ship in other places soon. As far as other options for retinoids, you are very limited in Canada. You can try a retinol for how which works similarly, but not as potent. I would definitely start using hyaluronic acid too! HEre is a recent post with the skincare products I highly recommend šŸ™‚

      Reply
  5. Kathryn Stewart says

    February 15, 2020 at 10:52 am

    Looking forward to this subscription…I enjoy reading your posts!

    Reply
    • Alexis says

      February 15, 2020 at 1:56 pm

      I am so glad you enjoy our posts Kathryn!

      Reply
  6. Rita M Jones says

    July 21, 2022 at 1:34 pm

    Will retinoids get rid on milia? I’m 68 years old and would love to have nice smooth skin.

    Reply
    • Alexis says

      July 23, 2022 at 2:09 pm

      Yea retinoids can treat that. Also salicylic acid

      Reply

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